Monday Muse: Kenzo’s Rave Revolution
Posted on: September 3, 2015 /
Kenzo Pre-fall 2015
Thanks to a long string of creative — or rather, unconventional — takes on the fashion show and presentation, designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have amassed a huge group of artists, musicians, actors and more (chocolatiers included) that have been involved in their seasonal showcases. It’s exactly the kind of motley mix that Kenzo Takada, the brand’s namesake, kept around in his own tribe when the brand was in its first iteration. It was that camaraderie and cultural mix that inspired the latest collection for Kenzo.
“They had their own language, and there was this idea of community and protection, but everyone in his clan did their own things,” Leon said.
The clothes were a celebration of joie de vivre, bringing together prints and textures from around the world. Globalization is a recurrent theme in the new house rules at Kenzo, after all. Exploded Egyptian heiroglyphics were paired with astrakan knits and colors clashed and complemented each other with what seemed like wild abandon.
Kenzo Pre-fall 2015
Upon closer inspection, the clothes were a technological tour de force as well.
Cottons and softer fabrics were treated with wax to give them more heft and the added bonus of water resistance. Knits were a combination of microscopic knots paired with oversized, chunky cables. Pajama sets and shirting was printed with the word LOVE ad infinitum. The styling called to mind rave culture and the outrageous retro futurism of Japanese street style.
Puffed, furry clogs and ankle boots added to the Japanese feel, as well as the layers (upon layers) that sometimes amounted to half a dozen collars on one look or three hemlines in combination with a contrast pant. The bags, one of the brand’s calling cards now, ditched their usual sleek, minimal lines for a more hand hewn and crafty feel with the addition of baubles and embellishment. Comfort was also key in all those layers. Cozying up and feeling safe in the changing world is one thing, but it’s cozying up with your own tribe of friends and confidants that really gets the creative juices flowing. At least, that’s what did it for Takada, and so it would seem, for Lim and Leon, too.